Reviving Suede & Nubuck
Suede care is more about technique than product. You're brushing the nap, not soaking the surface — water is the enemy. A soft brush, an eraser for marks, and a protectant spray before the first wear keep these looking sharp for years.
Overview
How often
Brush after every few wears and do a full clean roughly every 15 wears, sooner after rain, mud or a spill. Re-apply protector every 3–4 weeks of regular wear, sooner when water stops beading.
Materials covered
Suede, Nubuck, Synthetic suede, Shearling / sheepskin
What you'll need
- Jason Markk Premium Suede Cleaning KitComplete suede kit
- Crep Protect SprayUniversal protectant
- Reshoevn8r Suede Clean Revive KitAlt suede kit
- Nikwax Nubuck & Suede ProofMembrane-safe reproofer for Gore-Tex suede and nubuck
- Nikwax Fabric & Leather ProofMembrane-safe reproofer for Gore-Tex pairs
Picked for the material, not paid for. Test anything new on a hidden spot first.
Step by step
Step 1: Dry brush first, every time
Suede: crepe brush, or a brass brush with light pressure. Nubuck: crepe or soft nylon brush only — brass tears its short nap. Synthetic suede: crepe or soft nylon only — brass pills microfiber. Shearling: a soft suede brush or crepe only. Brush in one direction (never circles) to lift the nap and loose dirt.
Step 2: Spot-treat stains
Suede eraser (looks like a pencil eraser) for scuffs. Use light pressure, lightest of all on synthetic suede.
Skip for Shearling / sheepskinStep 3: Foam cleaning if needed
For deeper cleaning, apply foam cleaner to the brush (not directly to the shoe). Light strokes in one direction. Less is more.
Skip for Shearling / sheepskinStep 4: Shearling: sheepskin cleaner
A cleaner made for sheepskin (the kind sold for shearling boots) on a cloth, dabbed on the mark, never poured on. No foam cleaner and no suede eraser: both mat the pile. Let it dry fully at room temperature, then a soft brush to lift the nap.
Only for Shearling / sheepskinStep 5: Dry naturally
Stuff with paper. Never apply heat — suede gets stiff and shiny when overheated.
Step 6: Re-brush once dry
Raise nap that water flattened.
Step 7: Protect with repellent spray
Use a PFAS-free protector made for suede and nubuck. Even coat from 6-8 inches away, two light coats with 30 minutes between. Re-apply every 3–4 weeks of regular wear, sooner when water stops beading.
Skip for Waterproof membraneStep 8: Protect: membrane-safe reproofer
Waterproof lining: use a membrane-safe reproofer like Nikwax Nubuck & Suede Proof, not an ordinary protector, which clogs the membrane. Once clean and fully dry, when water stops beading.
Only for Waterproof membrane
What to avoid
- Water or liquid cleaner as the first step — dry brush first
- Brass brushes on nubuck
- Conditioner or leather cream — it mats the nap
- Heat to dry — it stiffens and shines the surface
- Scrubbing hard
Watch for
- Water rings. Treat fresh rings right away; older rings may not come out.
By material
The routine above, adjusted for each material it covers.
Suede
Full routine above.
Nubuck
Nubuck has a shorter, finer nap than suede. It's a little tougher against dirt but crushes easily under a stiff brush. Same routine, crepe or soft nylon brush only — no brass. AJ4 nubuck is the most common case.
Synthetic suede
More stain-resistant than real suede, but the nap flattens permanently with wear. Use the same brushing technique but skip the eraser — synthetic doesn't respond. Brush and protector spray only.
Shearling / sheepskin
Sheepskin suede outside, fleece inside: a soft suede brush or crepe only, never brass, and a cleaner made for sheepskin. Dry slowly at room temperature, stuffed with paper; heat shrinks and hardens it. Brush the fleece inside with a soft brush to keep it from matting.
Between wears
- Climate. Cool, dry, dark. Suede is more UV-sensitive than leather.
- Shape. Stuff to maintain shape — suede compresses easily.
- Moisture. Never store wet. Let the pair dry fully at room temperature, then brush. Water rings that set in are hard to remove.
- Protection. Re-spray protector every 3–4 weeks of regular wear, sooner when water stops beading — it wears off faster than you'd think.
Related guides
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Cleaning & Conditioning Leather
Most of your Jordans, Dunks, Air Maxes, Sambas, and Stan Smiths land here. Modern leather uppers are forgiving — what wrecks them is dirt sitting in crease lines and leather drying out from neglect. A clean every 25 wears or so, plus a light condition when it feels dry, keeps the grain alive.
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Cleaning Canvas
The forgiving upper. Canvas — Chucks, Vans, canvas Jordans — handles direct cleaning and firm brushing. Skip the washing machine and bleach (it weakens fibers and yellows whites), and dry out of direct sun.
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Cleaning Mesh & Knit
Flyknit, Primeknit, Roshe-style mesh — engineered for breathability, which means they soak up cleaning solutions and trap stains deep in the weave. Brush dry first, work the cleaner in lightly, and don't let water sit. Patience pays off here.
